Istanbul
Istanbul
Day 1 Friday 18th August 2023
Tania slept all the way during the Singapore leg to Istanbul, while Graeme dozed. We arrived at the airport on time - 8:00am. we cleared immigration and collected our bags and was on the way out at 10:00 to meet our booked transfer to bring us to our accommodation.
No one was there waiting, even though we had forwarded our flight details and I had no messages on my phone. It had been arranged through our hotel, I tried ringing the number I had, no answer. Finally got the correct number to call, and was told the driver had an accident on the way, she had tried to call but my phone was turned off. Apparently it didn't occur to her that she should try again !! Not a good start to our experience.
So we arranged our own transport with some random guy at the airport. It is a 40 min drive into the city of istanbul.

Obviously the traffic got heavier as we got nearer to the city, and our accommodation is right in the heart in the Sultanhamet district. Our driver started through a series of very narrow backstreets, where turning corners sometimes required backing up and realigning the car into the gap, backing up sometimes if a larger vehicle was coming the other way, etc. 

Our driver stopped and asked directions to our accommodation, the First Ottoman Apartments, and a man basically started walking in front to show him the way. We then got into a blocked street and had to walk about 100 metres around the corner, first knocking on the wrong door, then eventually finding our spot 4 doors down. What a drama ! We tipped the driver and berated the manager for not trying to contact us and let us know what was going on !

Welcome to Istanbul !! We dropped our bags off and started exploring !

A short but very steep uphill walk from our accommodation to a tram stop. A very helpful local showed us how to purchase a pass and put money on it. Before I thanked him I asked about the remaining 200 TKL we had given him, which he then also placed onto our pass. What a guy, were we being scammed !

So off we went, Tania had it all sorted .. a tram to Taksim Square then walk the entire length of Istiklal Street, the main retail pedestrian street in Istanbul. Walked back over the Galata Bridge, lots of fishermen catching very small fish. Then we made our way through the Spice Market, wandered through the back streets and nearly got lost. Graeme was exhausted .. lack of sleep so an early night

Day 2 Saturday 19th August 2023
Before we left home we purchased an Istanbul E-Pass, which gives us access to tours and entrance into a number of attractions in Istanbul. We chose a 3 day pass and today was our first day using it. As usual Tania had organised the day's tour itinerary and first off was a 9.30 tour of the Dolmabahce Palace, the last official palace used while the Ottomans were in power (i.e. before Turkish became a republic).
Leaving early also meant we missed breakfast which started at 9.00 am. We walked up that steep hill again and Graeme scored a mixed sandwich for breakfast. Caught the tram to Kabatas stop and walked 5 minutes to the palace, arriving in plenty of time for the tour. Davi was our guide and we spent 1 hour in the Harem section and 1 hour in the palace section. This was the last palace to be built and was more Europen influenced than Ottoman style. The Ottomans at this point in time believed the Europeans to be the most advanced in technology and armoury, so they decided to emulate them. Needless to say it was still very opulent and the size was huge, 3000 people lived on site.

We stopped off at the Istanbul Railway Station and had a coffee at the Orient Express Cafe and checked out the museum room there.

On the tram again back to Sultanhamet stop, where our next tour was starting of the Basilica Cistern, once again Davi was our guide, which was making it familiar.

The Basilica Cistern was a jaw dropping moment on entry. The place is 140 metres long and 70 metres wide and in its day held water over 7 metres high. Wow what engineering and building skills the Romans had. 

Because the first tour of the day took longer than expected, it threw Tania's tour itinerary out the door, so plan B, Basilica Cistern was changed from 11.30 to 13.30 and Topkapi Palace was added to the agenda for 15.30.

We were a bit early for the Topkapi Palace getting there at 14:45 and surprise, surprise, Davi had not long started the 14:30 tour. We were able to join in and spent 3 hours exploring this palace museum. 

Topkapi Palace was used by the Ottomans prior to the Dolmabahce Palace being completed, itself had only been completed for a short time.

On the way home stopped at a kebab restaurant for dips, kebabs and baklava ..... YUM !

On the way back to our apartment, we got our first look at the Grand Bazaar located not far from our hotel ! We entered at 18:45 and it was closing at 19:00. s So just a quick look as it is closed all day tomorrow.

Day 3 Sunday 20th August 2023

 Today's re-arranged Tania tour schedule includes the Hagia Sophia  at 9:45 and the Blue Mosque and Hippodrome at 11:45 !

Hagia Sophia, officially the Hagia Sophia Mosque, is a mosque and a major cultural and historical site in Istanbul, Turkey. The last of three church buildings to be successively erected on the site by the Eastern Roman Empire, it was completed in 537 AD. Another wow moment on entering, the size of this place is enormous and has an unbelievably huge domed roof. Cannot believe it was constructed over 1500 years ago ! Being a mosque, we had to remove our shoes and put blue shower cap like covers on our feet. The carpet, Turkish of course, was so plush under foot.

Beginning its life as a Byzantine Orthodox Christian church and currently now an Islamic Mosque, it is a bridge between the two religions. There are many Christian icons in the church, some are removed, defaced or covered, but others remain. Certainly worth the visit.

Next was the Blue Mosque, constructed by the Ottoman Sultans and very different in decorations internally. The view of the outside of the mosque from the courtyard was absolutely stunning, 

It seems most civilisations are represented throughout the history of Istanbul. Next visit was the Hippodrome, the chariot racing circuit constructed by the Romans.

Amazing facts about the Hippodrome of Constantinople In 390 CE, Byzantine emperor Theodosius I brought the Obelisk of Thutmosis III from Karnak (Southern Egypt) to Constantinople, erected it inside the hippodrome and named it “Obelisk of Theodosius” (Dikilitaş in Turkish). It is one of the twenty-nine Egyptian obelisks in the world. Despite its approx. 3500 years old age, the obelisk is in very good condition.

During the Nika Riots in 532 CE, Byzantine emperor Justinian I ordered the killing of 30,000 people locked in the Hippodrome of Constantinople.

During the Byzantine period, the Hippodrome was the centre of the Constantinopolitans’ everyday life.  

 

 Tonight we booked a Bosphorus cruise and dinner. Picked up from the hotel at 19:15, arrived at the boat at 20:00, were seating and started eating a 3 course meal. The boat left the dock around 21:30 to cruise the Bosphorus. Entertainment had already started, singing, dancing, whirling dervish, folk dancing etc. It was a great night and we were delivered back to our hotel by midnight. There was some hair raising moments with the drive to and from the dinner, they are absolutely crazy drivers over here !!!

Day 4 Monday 21st August 2023
Even though breakfast was included with our accommodation, today was the first day we actually had stayed long enough to partake of it. Was meant to be available from 9.00 am. but it arrived at 9.45am. Big Turkish breakfasts consist of meat, salad, bread, boiled eggs, olives, cheese etc. Certainly enough to keep us going all day.

Today we headed to Balat / Fener district, famous for Ottoman styled multi coloured wooden housing. Caught a tram and walked for about 30 mins along the coast, in amongst road works to get there. Another hot day with temperature in the low 30's.

Wasn't as impressed or we couldn't find them after about 2 hours wandering around the area, but there were other interesting buildings and shops. It is also an old district popular with tourists. After a borek for lunch while sitting in the local park, we had our first exposure to the "shoe shine scam" !! 2 men walked by us, one dropped his brush right in front of us, I saw it, but Tania was eating and didn't. I didn't say anything as he walked on. He eventually turned back after realising I wasn't going to call out and he picked it up. He then offered us a shoe shine - I pointed to our hiking boots (NOT leather) and raised my hands ... he was still willing to try !


Walked back into town for our visit to the Grand Bazaar, there was a 16.30 tour using our Istanbul E-Pass, which turned out to be a waste of time. We were hoping for some history, information of location of varous types of stalls and how to best negotiate the lanes of the bazaar. But this was the worst tour, the guide only walked us into the main entrance, up and down one lane and that was it - left to our devices. 

Not to be put off we took the challenge along with a general map Tania downloaded before leaving home! It turns out the bazaar is not really hard to negotiate, there are no real areas that specialise in certain goods, there are many repetitive stalls selling the same items. We did suceed in buying some Turkish towels for ourselves and a friend and we stayed until closing time - 19:00.

Headed back to hotel to pack our suitcasses which we will leave in Istanbul, and preapre a carry on only for our flight tomorrow to Cappadocia. A 6.30 transport collection was arranged.  

0 0 votes
Article Rating
Subscribe
Notify of
guest
11 Comments
Oldest
Newest Most Voted
Inline Feedbacks
View all comments
Hermann Ernst
Hermann Ernst
2 years ago

Welcome to Istanbul, indeed.

Will you please pay more attention to your typos. I understand though. Tania packs so much into entry day that you have little enough time to punch your journal entries out, let alone proof read them before hitting the go button.

When is the Turkish bath massage scheduled.

Hermann Ernst
Hermann Ernst
2 years ago

Oops. Every day. Not entry day

Kathryn
Kathryn
2 years ago

I look forward to reading about all your travel after reading this .Tania is a great organiser! Safe travel

Allan
Allan
2 years ago

Ah, the shoe shine scam, know it well. Fortunately we weren’t carrying much money so we just walked away while he ranted and raved! The Blue Mosque is amazing and was undergoing some serious renovations when we were there but still spectacular.

Hyde Park Sunday
Hyde Park Sunday
2 years ago

Yes, yes. But what about the Turkish baths massage experience.
Where is the report on that?

Marilyn
Marilyn
2 years ago

I’m exhausted just reading about your busy days! But what sights you are seeing!

Roger and Kerrie
Roger and Kerrie
2 years ago

What an amazing experience. Any Turkish Delight? Photos fab.

Angela
Angela
2 years ago

Great read, thanks for sharing with us. Sounds like your intro to Turkey has delivered some interesting events.

11
0
Would love your thoughts, please comment.x
()
x